Palazzo Conte Federico

A map of Palermo before covering the two inlets done in painted tile

In the past, the aristocracy of Sicily owned three-quarters of the arable land but preferred to live in Palermo instead of the country.  They built their grand palazzi and competed with each other over who could create the most lavish interiors.  Many of these grand palazzi have seen better days.  Some are in ruins, some have been taken over by the State or the local government, but some are still owned and cared for by the descendants of the original families.

Ceiling fresco

This is the Palermo of The Leopard (Gattopardo) by Giuseppe Tomasi de Lampedusa. The Leopard is one of three good reads on Sicily, the other two being, On Persephone's Island  written by Mary Taylor Simeti and Midnight in Sicily by Peter Robb.  Ms. Simeti is an American expat who is married to a Sicilian and has raised two children in Sicily.  Her book is a journal covering one year in her life there.  Peter Robb is an Australian who lived in both Palermo an Naples an has tried to make sense of the trial of seven-time Italian prime minister Giulio Andreotti who came to trial for corruption and murder.  His association with organized crime has led to a continuing social and political turmoil that has affected even the Vatican.  Set in the 1860s, The Leopard tells the spellbinding story of a decadent, dying Sicilian aristocracy threatened by the approaching forces of democracy and revolution.  If you're lazy The Leopard was made into an excellent film by Luchino Visconti starring Burt Lancaster, Claudia Cardinale and Alain Delon.  Now back to our story.

Conte Federico comes from a family who claim descent from an illegitimate son of Frederick Barbarossa, king of Sicily in the thirteenth century.  Like many European aristocrats, Conte Federico needs to put his inheritance to work to pay for its upkeep, so the rooms of the palazzo are available for hire, they give tours, and it's possible to spend the night as well.

Fiat Balilla 508S Coppa d'Oro

Fiat Balilla 508S Coppa d'Oro

At Palazzo Federico, located on a narrow cobblestone street, our guide rang the buzzer and giant wooden doors opened electronically.  Upon entering the courtyard we were greeted by a Fiat Balilla 508S at ground level and Contessa Federico from a balcony.  Important introductions first, the 508 was introduced by FIAT in 1932.  In 1933 Carrozzeria Ghia created the Sport Spider 508S based on the Balilla saloon for Fiat.  The hot version came with cycle-fenders and a lightened chassis and was named Coppa d'Oro'.  Only a few were produced but those did well in the Mille Miglia and other European races.  It is believed that fewer than 10 original Coppa d'Oro Balillas exist today.  It weighs just 625 kg and has a four-speed manual gearbox and four-wheel hydraulic drum brakes.  This one displayed a Siata badge indicating a Siata-modified engine.  It turns out that Conte Federico has raced most of his life in Sicily and Africa.  Deep in his heart he's another car guy.  All of a sudden the visit looked to be more interesting. 

Contessa Alwine, who is Austrian and was a champion swimmer, invited us up the marble staircase to join her on the second floor.  She proceeded to lead us through the palace, sharing family story, photos, and antiquities.  The contessa clearly enjoyed being a hostess and tour guide.  The palazzo incorporates Architectural details from various periods, from a medieval bipartite window, to a Sicilian baroque painted ceiling and hand painted floor tiles.  

The original kitchen

Nightcap anyone?

The palazzo foundation was built on the Punic-Roman city walls that once surrounded ancient Palermo and is attached to Scrigno Tower, which is of Norman-Arab origins.  The tower was constructed late in the 1100s AD.  However, the wall on which it sits was constructed between 700-400 BC by Phoenicians and Carthaginians.  Sometime in the 1200s, the palace was built around the tower, thus preserving it over the centuries.

Looking into the tower from outside on the wall

Pointing out the frescos

Frescos uncovered on the original walls during restoration

Frescos uncovered on the original walls during restoration

The tour ended with refreshments, antipasti and they own wine and a visit to Conte Federico's small 'man cave' filled with trophies and memorabilia from his racing.  Today he races vintage but over the years participated numerous times in the Targa Florio, and other races in Italy and Libya.

Conte Federico today

Conte Federico as a young man