Cioccolato di Modica and Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

Cioccolato di Modica has Italian Prodotto agroalimentare tradizionale registration, (similar to EU Traditional specialties guaranteed, TSG) which recognizes it as typical of the municipality of Modica in Sicily.  An ancient and original recipe gives the chocolate a peculiar grainy texture and aromatic flavor similar to chocolate in México.  Inspired by the original Aztec recipe for Xocoatl, and introduced to Modica by the Spaniards.  The story of Sicilian chocolate winds down a path going back through history, uniting Sicily with Spain, particularly Modica.  Spain brought chocolate to Europe from the civilization of the Aztecs, ancient inhabitants of Mexico.  When the Spanish discovered the Americas, they found an extraordinary variety of foods.  The Aztecs made Xocoàtl from cocoa seeds, and held it in high regard because it conferred strength and vigor and was a sign of wealth. The Aztecs ground the cocoa seeds using a stone mill called a metate consisting of a a curved stone placed on two transversal base stones with a rolling pin also made of stone.  The cocoa flour produced was then mixed with spices and hot water and used as a drink.  If you're interested in Mexican chocolate in all its forms visit my blog about Oaxaca, México. 

In contrast to later versions throughout Europe, Antica Dolceria Bonajuto makes chocolate with the same ancient technique and ingredients.  They begin with a mass of ground cocoa that still contains its cocoa butter.  The mass is heated to make it fluid, and at a precise temperature, it is mixed with castor sugar and spices (cinnamon or vanilla).  The mixing is done with a "refiner", a modern-day replacement of the metate.  The mixture is kept at a low temperature that prevents the sugar crystals from melting (they remain an integral part of the chocolate bar).  Not really too hard to do since chocolate melts at approximately body temperature (30º to 32º C) and sugar at somewhat above 100º C.  The final phase consists of spreading the mixture into forms.  This "cold working" of the chocolate excludes the phase of conching, which keeps flavors alive that would otherwise disappear.  The simplicity of the technique and the fact that there is no addition of butter or other extraneous substances (vegetable fats, milk derivatives or lecithin) keeps the full flavor of the chocolate.

In 1880, Francesco Bonajuto, following in his father Frederico's footsteps, opened a small cake shop in Modica.  From this shop, he made exquisite cakes from centuries-long traditions of Arabian and Spanish origin.  Today the shop that bears his name produces Cioccolato di Modica, Sicilian biscotti, and Aranciata e cedrata.  You may visit the shop online at bonajuto.it/en/

Arancini

Arancini probably originated in 10th-century Sicily when the island was under Arab rule.  In Palermo and Trapani, arancini are a traditional food for the feast of Santa Lucia on December 13th when Sicilians don't eat bread or pasta. This commemorates arrival of a grain ship on Santa Lucia's day in 1646, relieving a severe famine.  Today arancini are found year round at Sicilian cafés and special arancini shops, particularly in Palermo.  The most common arancini are con ragù with a filling of ragù, a piece of boiled egg, and a few cubes of ragusano. The dish is often made using rice from leftover risotto.  The rice originated as short grain rice imported from Japan and is known as riso originario of which arborio is a superfino hybrid.

So let's make 4 arancini.  Starting with the rice, for 400g of rice you will need 50g butter, 4g saffron, 1 small onion minced, and 1/2  cup grated caciocavallo or parmesan cheese.  Cook as for a risotto, I really don't need to tell you how to do this, and spread the rice out on a sheet pan to cool.  

Now for the ragù, for 100 g each of ground beef and pork, you will need a small onion, 1 carrot, 1 rib of celery, 3 Tbs. olive oil, 1/2 cup of red wine, 100 g peas, 100 g tomato sauce, and 1 Tbs. tomato paste. Finely chop the onion, carrot and celery.  Sauté the onion in the oil for a couple of minutes just to soften the onions.  Add the meats and continue to sauté until the meat changes color.  Add the tomato paste and briefly sauté.  Add the wine and cook until the alcohol has evaporated.  Add the tomato sauce and salt and pepper to taste.  Cook on a moderate fire for 10 minutes then add the peas and cook for another 20 minutes.  If you're using frozen peas add them 5 minutes from the end of cooking.  Let the ragù cool. 

Now it's time to assemble the arancini.  You will need 100 g fresh ragusano or provolone cut into 1 cm cubes and 1 hard-boiled egg cut into 4 pieces. We also need some pastella made from 2 T water mixed with 1 T flour and fine dry breadcrumbs.  Take 1/4 of the rice in your hand and form it into a shallow cup.  

Add a spoon of the sauce, a piece of egg, and 2 or 3 cubes of cheese.  Be careful to not over fill it.  Now close it up with both hands forming a ball.  Coat the ball with the pastella.  This helps the breadcrumbs stick.  Now liberally coat the arancini in breadcrumbs.  Fry them a few at a time in hot (375º F) oil until they turn a rich golden brown.  There must be enough oil so that they are completely covered.  Set them in a warm oven for about 10 minutes to dry before serving.  Mangia bene!

Ragusa

Sicilian countryside in early March on the road to Ragusa

Ragusa Ibla

Ragusa traces it's origin back to Sicel settlements of the 2nd millennium BC. The current district of Ragusa Ibla has been identified as Hybla Heraea on the road from Syracuse to Agrigentum, modern Agrigento.  The ancient city, located on a hill of 300 meters came into contact with nearby Greek colonies, and grew thanks to the nearby port of Camerina. Following a short period of Carthaginian rule, it fell into the hands of the ancient Romans who fortified the city.  The Arabs occupied Ragusa in 848 AD. They remained under Arab rule until the 11th century, when conquered by the Normans.  Thereafter Ragusa's history followed the events of the Kingdom of Sicily.  In 1693 a huge earthquake devastated Ragusa, killing some 5,000 inhabitants. Following this catastrophe the city rebuilt, and many baroque buildings from this time remain in the city.  Much of the population moved to a new settlement, calling this new municipality "Ragusa Superiore" (Upper Ragusa) and the ancient city "Ragusa Inferiore" (Lower Ragusa).  The two cities remained separated until 1926, when they were fused together to become the provincial capital at the expense of Monica.  Construction of The Cathedral of San Giorgio started in 1738 by architect Rosario Gagliardi, in place of the temple destroyed by the 1693 earthquake. The façade contains a flight of 250 steps and massive ornate columns. A large neoclassical dome built in 1820 tops it.

Duomo di San Giorgio

Until fifty years ago, the thriving presence of carob or in Italian carruba characterized the Iblean landscape in southern Sicily.  Carob growing represented important income, its fruit, the carat, was the weighting unit for goldsmiths. Now used as a source of extracts for cosmetics and the pharmaceutical industry, and for food production. But today it has virtually disappeared, replaced by the hackberry tree, which some confuse with the carob.  The disappearing of carob is a problem for cattle breeding, as the tree spreading its majestic branches in the middle of a farm's courtyard was a real open-air stable.  Under its shadow one could find some 15-20 cows resting, and its fruit was fundamental for their well being.  In Italian the word for carob is carruba.  Carob is made into flour and when combined with a proportion of wheat flour made into pasta.

bottarga dei poveri, bread crumbs and anchovy on carob tagliolini

Uovo in camicia con asparagi croccante fonduta di ragusano or Poached egg with crispy asparagus and fondue Ragusa

Salad of orange, radicchio, almonds, olives, capers, and wild fennel fronds