Thursday, May 19, 2016

Monreale


Monreale lies above Palermo, on the slope of Monte Caputo, overlooking the very fertile valley called "La Conca d'oro" (the Golden Shell), famed for its orange, olive and almond trees.  Surveying Palermo and the Conca D’Oro from its panoramic hilltop position, Monreale would be a fairly non-descript town save for one of the world’s most stunning architectural treasures: the Duomo.



When the Arabs took control of Palermo in 831, they transformed the cathedral into a mosque and banished the Bishop of Palermo from town.  The role of the cathedral was assigned to a modest little church, Aghia Kiriaki, in the village nearby which was later called Monreale.  Some 240 years later, in 1072, the Normans drove the Arabs from Sicily, establishing Palermo as their capital and re-consecrating the cathedral.  In 1174 King William II ordered the construction of a new church in Monreale, dedicated to the Virgin Mary.  Enlightened, tolerant and appreciative of many aspects of North African and middle-eastern culture and art, William II employed the very best Arabic, Byzantine and Norman craftsmen to work on the cathedral. The result is a fascinating fusion of architectural styles, artistic traditions and religious symbolism.


It is, however, the large extent of the glass mosaics that makes this church so splendid.  With the exception of a high dado, made of marble slabs with bands of mosaic between them, the whole interior surface of the walls, including soffits and jambs of all the arches, is covered with minute mosaic-pictures in bright colors on a gold background.  The geometrically patterned marble floor, in-laid with Middle-Eastern mosaics, supports two lines of granite Corinthian columns that delineate the wide, lofty, wooden-roofed nave.  Lancet arches leap from column to column drawing the eye to the window-punctured clerestory and its astonishing display of art.


Outside the Cathedral, adjoining its south side is another artistic and architectonic masterpiece: the cloisters. Built in 1200 as part of the Cathedral abbey, the cloisters comprise 108 pairs of marble columns, a covered arcade of Arabic arches and a central quad. Every other pair of columns is decorated with unique mosaic patterns, no two are the same, each topped by a floral capital.  The overall effect is one of not quite perfect symmetry.


Wikipedia has some excellent images of the mosaics, particularly those near the bottom of the article which can be expanded, or google Monreale and then select images.























Monday, May 16, 2016

Palermo Markets

La Vuccirìa de Renato Guttuso
Renato Guttuso, famous Sicilian artist, dedicated a painting, “Vuccirìa di Palermo”, to the Vuccirìa market that soon became one of his most famous works and an emblem of Palermo.  The Vuccirìa, which translates to 'voices' or 'hubbub', just listen for the noise as everyone haggles back and forth, is one of four popular historic markets of Palermo together with Ballarò, ù Capo and Borgo Vecchio.  La Vuccirìa, situated in the side streets around Piazza San Domenico, opens early in the morning when the fishermen arrive with their catch and buyers are already waiting.  As the other vendors are setting up their stalls, the fishermen are already selling the best of their fish and seafood.  There’s a Sicilian expression I love: “Quannu s'asciucanu i balati dà Vucciria,” which means, ‘when the streets of the Vucciria run dry’, meaning, not in this lifetime or in the unforeseeable future.  The Ballarò market extends along Via Ballarò past Piazza Carmine toward Corso Tukory.  The Capo market, located behind the Teatro Massimo, extends from Via Porta Carini off Via Volturno near the old city wall toward Piazza Beati Paoli.  Sicily's outdoor market tradition dates from the ninth-century Saracen rule of the island, which explains their striking similarity to Arab souqs.  The character has remained essentially the same over the centuries; remarkably some of the outdoor markets stand on the very same sites today as they did in the tenth century.  The markets are perhaps the best preserved of Sicily's Arab traditions.

Vendor selling artichokes and favas
Artichokes

A Sicilian street market is a rich mix of sights from a colorful assortment of produce, fish, and meats, groceries and housewares.   Colored tarpaulins cover the stalls for protection from sun or rain.  Vendors hawk their wares creating a cacophony.  Anything you might want; blood oranges, fennel, artichokes, chicory, herbs, capers, cuttlefish, swordfish, prawns, mackerel, sardines, breads, salamis, olives, and cheeses.  Vendors with arancine (fried rice balls filled with ragú), panelle (fried chickpea fritters), stigghiola (goat intestines), pani ca meusa (a sandwich filled with spleen) will satisfy your immediate hunger pangs. 

Wild fennel fronds
Fennel    


Caciocavallo
Capers