Rioja and Laguardia

Laguardia lies within Basque country that rubs up along side Rioja, separated at times by the river Ebro.  Originally built as a walled town and used primarily as a fort, Laguardia is known for its tunnels, dug under the town to protect the inhabitants during battles with openings that exited to the hillside for escape.  Later people realized they had built perfect wine cellars.  The tunnels are still in use today and many residents have their private cellars in them.  It's a pretty little town but we're not here to go spelunking but to eat.  Located just outside of the walls of La villa de Laguardia, the restaurant and tapas bar, Doña Blanca, was built above one of the tunnels where wine was once made.  There are windows in the floor so you can look down into the caves.  Best of all though it has good comida and a wine list with almost 800 choices.  

Ensalada de sepia   

 

Ensalada de pulpo    

Ensalada de sardina    

Alcachofas fritas    

Luis Valentín    

Luis Valentín and Carmen Enciso worked together for a long time at Bodegas Palacio. In 1998 after the winery was sold to Hijos de Antonio Barceló, they decided to start their own project, Valenciso, the result of joining their surnames.  Luis and Carmen rented a small warehouse with barely enough space to produce just 24,000 bottles. Encouraged by their early results, they continued to buy in grapes from local growers and in 2002, decided to build their own winery. In 2008 the cellar doors opened and today Valenciso employs 6 full time employees and produces over 100,000 bottles.  The modern winery is about 15 minutes from the town of Haro, which dates back to the 10th century and has been the center of viniculture activity in Rioja for centuries.  From their base in Ollauri, they produce small quantities of Reserva wines.  Valenciso Reserva comes from old vine Tempranillo planted in Rioja Alta where sustainable or “reasoned” viticulture practices are observed.  Wines are aged for 16 months in French oak barrels of which a third are renewed each year.  Valenciso also makes a barrel-fermented white, a blend of Viura and Garnacha Blanca.