Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik has an interesting past as a rival to Venice. As traders they bought their independence from whom ever was strongest be it the Byzantium, the Ottomans, Hungary, the Vatican, or Venice. It was a sort of Hong Kong or Singapore of its time.  Historical lore indicates that Dubrovnik was founded in the 7th century on a rocky island named Laus, which is said to have provided shelter for refugees from the nearby city of Epidaurum.  More recently, another theory, based on new archaeological excavations, contradicts the traditional theory. Excavation of a Byzantine basilica from the 8th century indicates that there was quite a large settlement at the time.  However it started by the 14th century and until 1808, Dubrovnik ruled itself as a free state, although it was a vassal of the Ottoman Empire for 400 years of that time and paid an annual tribute to its sultan.   Yet during that time many Conversos, Jews from Spain and Portugal, were attracted to the city.  After the Ottomans came the Habsburg Empire, then after WWI the city became part of Yugoslavia.  

In 1991 Croatia and Slovenia, which at that time were republics within Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, declared their independence.  Following Croatia's declaration of independence the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA), by then composed primarily of Serbs, attacked the city on October 1, 1991 with a siege that lasted seven months.  Following the end of the war, damage caused by the shelling of the Old Town was repaired.  The inflicted damage can be seen on a chart near the city gate, showing all artillery hits during the siege, and is clearly visible from high points around the city in the form of the more brightly colored new roofs.  A feature of Dubrovnik is its walls that run almost 2 km around the city.  The walls and system of turrets and towers were intended to protect the city.  The wall has been a filming site for the fictional city of King's Landing in the popular HBO television series, Game of Thrones.

For an in-depth look at the city follow Roberto de Lorenzo on his walking tour.  You'll end up near St Ignatius Church and across the plaza is Restaurant Kopun, a place to rest your feet and wet your whistle.

On the sea side of the wall there are two bars, Buža I & II, reached through breaks in the wall.  These provide a wonderful escape from the crowds and if you brought your bathing suit an opportunity for a dip.

Away from Dubrovnik, one can take a walk away from the crowds and get a taste of how the locals spend their time.  A nice way to do it is to cut across from Lapad Bay to Port Gruž then follow a route around the end of the peninsula back to Lapad Bay.