Cioccolato di Modica and Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

Cioccolato di Modica has Italian Prodotto agroalimentare tradizionale registration, (similar to EU Traditional specialties guaranteed, TSG) which recognizes it as typical of the municipality of Modica in Sicily.  An ancient and original recipe gives the chocolate a peculiar grainy texture and aromatic flavor similar to chocolate in México.  Inspired by the original Aztec recipe for Xocoatl, and introduced to Modica by the Spaniards.  The story of Sicilian chocolate winds down a path going back through history, uniting Sicily with Spain, particularly Modica.  Spain brought chocolate to Europe from the civilization of the Aztecs, ancient inhabitants of Mexico.  When the Spanish discovered the Americas, they found an extraordinary variety of foods.  The Aztecs made Xocoàtl from cocoa seeds, and held it in high regard because it conferred strength and vigor and was a sign of wealth. The Aztecs ground the cocoa seeds using a stone mill called a metate consisting of a a curved stone placed on two transversal base stones with a rolling pin also made of stone.  The cocoa flour produced was then mixed with spices and hot water and used as a drink.  If you're interested in Mexican chocolate in all its forms visit my blog about Oaxaca, México. 

In contrast to later versions throughout Europe, Antica Dolceria Bonajuto makes chocolate with the same ancient technique and ingredients.  They begin with a mass of ground cocoa that still contains its cocoa butter.  The mass is heated to make it fluid, and at a precise temperature, it is mixed with castor sugar and spices (cinnamon or vanilla).  The mixing is done with a "refiner", a modern-day replacement of the metate.  The mixture is kept at a low temperature that prevents the sugar crystals from melting (they remain an integral part of the chocolate bar).  Not really too hard to do since chocolate melts at approximately body temperature (30º to 32º C) and sugar at somewhat above 100º C.  The final phase consists of spreading the mixture into forms.  This "cold working" of the chocolate excludes the phase of conching, which keeps flavors alive that would otherwise disappear.  The simplicity of the technique and the fact that there is no addition of butter or other extraneous substances (vegetable fats, milk derivatives or lecithin) keeps the full flavor of the chocolate.

In 1880, Francesco Bonajuto, following in his father Frederico's footsteps, opened a small cake shop in Modica.  From this shop, he made exquisite cakes from centuries-long traditions of Arabian and Spanish origin.  Today the shop that bears his name produces Cioccolato di Modica, Sicilian biscotti, and Aranciata e cedrata.  You may visit the shop online at bonajuto.it/en/