Ragusa

Sicilian countryside in early March on the road to Ragusa

Ragusa Ibla

Ragusa traces it's origin back to Sicel settlements of the 2nd millennium BC. The current district of Ragusa Ibla has been identified as Hybla Heraea on the road from Syracuse to Agrigentum, modern Agrigento.  The ancient city, located on a hill of 300 meters came into contact with nearby Greek colonies, and grew thanks to the nearby port of Camerina. Following a short period of Carthaginian rule, it fell into the hands of the ancient Romans who fortified the city.  The Arabs occupied Ragusa in 848 AD. They remained under Arab rule until the 11th century, when conquered by the Normans.  Thereafter Ragusa's history followed the events of the Kingdom of Sicily.  In 1693 a huge earthquake devastated Ragusa, killing some 5,000 inhabitants. Following this catastrophe the city rebuilt, and many baroque buildings from this time remain in the city.  Much of the population moved to a new settlement, calling this new municipality "Ragusa Superiore" (Upper Ragusa) and the ancient city "Ragusa Inferiore" (Lower Ragusa).  The two cities remained separated until 1926, when they were fused together to become the provincial capital at the expense of Monica.  Construction of The Cathedral of San Giorgio started in 1738 by architect Rosario Gagliardi, in place of the temple destroyed by the 1693 earthquake. The façade contains a flight of 250 steps and massive ornate columns. A large neoclassical dome built in 1820 tops it.

Duomo di San Giorgio

Until fifty years ago, the thriving presence of carob or in Italian carruba characterized the Iblean landscape in southern Sicily.  Carob growing represented important income, its fruit, the carat, was the weighting unit for goldsmiths. Now used as a source of extracts for cosmetics and the pharmaceutical industry, and for food production. But today it has virtually disappeared, replaced by the hackberry tree, which some confuse with the carob.  The disappearing of carob is a problem for cattle breeding, as the tree spreading its majestic branches in the middle of a farm's courtyard was a real open-air stable.  Under its shadow one could find some 15-20 cows resting, and its fruit was fundamental for their well being.  In Italian the word for carob is carruba.  Carob is made into flour and when combined with a proportion of wheat flour made into pasta.

bottarga dei poveri, bread crumbs and anchovy on carob tagliolini

Uovo in camicia con asparagi croccante fonduta di ragusano or Poached egg with crispy asparagus and fondue Ragusa

Salad of orange, radicchio, almonds, olives, capers, and wild fennel fronds